The 27-May 3D Printer Workshop at CTH went well. Our new pal Josh brought in his older AirWolf 3D AW3D XL printer. This thing has a huge 200×300 mm heated build plate. However, the build plate was a PCB-style which flexed and warped when heating up. This gave an inconsistent print surface height. If you’ve printed before, you know the height of the print surfaces has to be pretty darn consistent to get first-layer adhesion. Josh bought a replacement aluminum build plate, but unfortunately, the mounting holes were not the same! We can fix that… Continue reading
My beloved Afinia H-Series 3D Printer has not been working for several weeks. The bed would not heat up and the printer would not start printing because the bed was not up to temperature. I took the opportunity at the CTH 3D Printer Workshop to troubleshoot the Afinia. Well, I found the cause after a little disassembly. Do you see a problem here???? Continue reading
No, it’s not done yet but the iTopie project continues. As you can see, the frame is painted, the parts are printed and the assembly process is well underway. I’m very satisfied with how the frame came out. It is solid and my added handle is the bee’s knees. The handle is slightly rearward of the current CG but I will try to fix that by putting any additional components as far rearward as possible. It’s still a handy handle, though!
With the Wade-style RepRap 3D Printer extruders, the part that actually drives the filament is a ‘hobbed bolt’. A hobbed bolt has a little toothed-groove around its circumference that grips the filament and drives it into the hot-end as the bolt is turned. There’s a few ways to make a hobbed bolt. We’ll show you one way here that utilizes a Tap and Milling Machine.
For a typical Wade-style extruder, an 8mm bolt is used. Since we want to cut the toothed groove completely around the bolt we need that bolt to rotate. What better way to do that than to mount it in a pair of bearings. Regular skate bearings (608zz) have 8mm inner diameters and are actually what are used to support the bolt in the Wade extruder. I designed up a quick 3D-printed bracket to hold a pair of bearings and provide some features for easy clamping in the Milling Machine’s vise. Continue reading
I have successfully printed several parts in a row without human interaction. Check out the video:
Today I started a new 3D Printer build. I found what appears to be a great derivative of the Prusa i3, the iTopie. The i3 looks simple to build but it looks as if it could be a little flimsy with the threaded rod frame.
The original design was made for 16mm MDF. Home Depot only has 1/2 inch so I modified the DXF file a bit to compensate. I also added a handle on the top of the printer frame and make the base a little taller so I could fit an ATX power supply under there.
I used the CNC Router to cut out the parts. The overall cutting time Continue reading
Many members in our community recognize the full value in what open source can mean with a direct correlation to innovation. We are very excited to see that Lulzbot recognizes our commitment to open source by choosing CT Hackerspace as a winner to their 3D printer giveaway contest . We look forward to working with a community with innovation at the core of their “open” philosophy. The Lulzbot Mini 3D printer will be a great tool to have in pursuing future inventions and creations by both our members and our surrounding community.
UPDATE: Our printer worked right out of the box. The heated build platform and automatic bed probing works excellent. This printer is a real workhorse. Check out our dedicated Lulzbot work station, it’s always ready to rock and roll: